The place still makes a few boots and shoes, none of them for cycling though. But on Day 1 of my route research around Northampton, the boot was on the other foot: my gravel foot, not my road bike foot. Having paused to admire the Guildhall, and come away from the tourist office in the…
Category: Other
Birmingham: More cycle paths than Venice
I was in Birmingham to investigate a cycle cafe – Gorilla, in King’s Heath – and had a chance to ride a few stretches of bike path during my spin round the city. Many of these bike paths were sparkling examples of the genre, because they were full of broken glass. Birmingham must be the…
Thirsk: Hidden bridges, collapsing walls, secret sculptures
Bike pace is perfect for getting under the skin of things, as countless mosquitoes and fleas chomping me this summer could verify. And today’s ride – a sixty-mile circuit west of Thirsk via Masham and Ripon – revealed some delightful bits of quirky, off-piste Yorkshire. From Thirsk’s market square I headed northwest past the racecourse…
Geneva to Florence 5: Newport to Florence
Little back lanes through little back villages got me to Eccleshall, a handsome small town that has more than you’d expect from something of this size: craft-beer bars, artisan bakeries, Young Offender Institutions. After some thought I decided the most appropriate of those for me just now was the artisan bakery, and snaffled a gourmet…
Geneva to Florence 4: Welshpool to Newport
The morning was silent, save the gentle throb of hangovers from the neighbouring tents. A short day in prospect today, with the Welsh hills behind me. And the Shropshire hills in front of me. I explored Welshpool, which didn’t quite have the picturesque centre I imagined, though I got a glimpse of the canal towpath…
Geneva to Florence 3: Elan Valley to Welshpool
The railtrail up Elan Valley (NCN81) is superb: smooth flat scenic tarmac for miles, from Rhayader to the head of Garreg-Ddu reservoir. The weather was a bit less superb, grey and damp and spitty, but I was happy, winching my way up the waterside paths. Waterside information boards showed the sort of rare animals you…
Geneva to Florence 2: Geneva to Elan Valley
On a beautiful sunny morning, a beautiful ridgetop ride from my farm campsite to Aberaeron. I’d not even heard of it before, but it turned out to be a pleasant harbour town with a high count of bistros, cafes, and agreeable locals giving me helpful route suggestions. I headed east out of town along the…
Geneva to Florence 1: Carmarthen to Geneva
With international travel tricky, I’m doing Geneva to Florence, for a possible magazine article. Not from Switzerland to Italy via the Alps, though: it’s from Carmarthen to the Potteries via mid-Wales mountains. Which means some spectacular passes, at least. Geneva, Wales is pretty small. Not a village. Not even a hamlet. Not even a farmhouse….
Hexham 4: Along the Tyne to the Toon
It was all go with the flow today, following the Tyne downriver to Newcastle mainly along the fine NCN72, with a friendly tailwind. I investigated a few back lanes north and east of Hexham, ending up ruling more out than in for my routes article, but did enjoy some excellent ridgetop views, quiet roads, and…
Hexham 3: Pennines mightier than the sward
Dales, moortops, bits of the C2C, England’s third-highest road and the very centre of Britain (maybe): there was plenty of variety today, as well as breathtaking climbs and descents. Haltwhistle, further along the Newcastle–Carlise rail line from Hexham (which may give you a clue as to how I had a slap-up breakfast and still got…









