In researching the update for the Bradt Guide to the Czech Republic, I’ve been visiting a few spa towns on my folder. They each have their own personality, like, er, fringe political parties. At least you know it’s always springtime. So here’s four of the most notable: Karlovy Vary, Františkovy Lázně and Mariánské Lázně (in West Bohemia) and Luhačovice (in South Bohemia, over to the east).
Karlovy Vary (‘Carlsbad’)
Generally rated as the most exciting of the Czech spa towns, with lots of stuff going on such as film festivals, concerts, expensive restaurants, pickpockets, rubber duck emporia, bogus cannabis shops etc. Actually I find it a bit claustrophobic: it’s essentially one street that winds alongside a small river, its hillsides hemmed in by elegant villas and hotels, plus the odd communist-era eyesore. Not great cycling in the centre – it’s crowded with tourists and there are some unhelpful one-way systems and no-bike zones – but some excellent routes in and out alongside the main riverbanks or up into the hills.
Mariánské Lázně (‘Marienbad’)
Elegant gardens and parks make this fun to cycle around, and there are plenty of countryside routes to explore.
In its turn-of-the-century ‘Marienbad’ heyday circa 1900 it was the playground of the rich, famous and overprivileged: Edward VII of Britain came here to wallow in his opulent private bathroom in the Nové Lázně hotel, which you can use for a very reasonable fee today too. There’s a bell by the side of the bath, which Fat Eddy no doubt used to summon port and cigars from the servants, but which doesn’t work today. I know, I tried it.
ML’s posh spa district is not brilliant for eating and drinking, but a short bike ride down the hill towards the station and you’re in plebbier territory with cheap pubs and canteens, rather more to my budget and taste.
Františkovy Lázně (‘Franzenbad’)
Usually considered the least interesting of the three major West Bohemian Spa Towns, FL is actually my favourite, precisely because it’s quiet and less touristed. Sure, it has the feel of a film set on a day off, and is a bit short on resto-pubs.
But I loved exploring its sprawling, green, tranquil parklands, tracking down all two-dozen-ish springs. (Helpfully mapped and listed on a free leaflet from Tourist Info.) They’re housed in a variety of ways – some are in greenhouse-like pavilions, some in wooden summerhouses, some drinking-fountain dispensers, some attended by modern sculptures, some down half-cellars dribbling from a pipe – but all are fun to find, and make an ideal half-day or day on a bike roaming around. You can sample the waters all free, of course – take a receptacle or buy one from a vending machine. The bouquets vary; all are metallic, sharply flavoured and curious to taste, often suggestive of a petrol-station unfamiliar-brand energy drink without the aspartame.
Luhačovice
Way out east, on the Slovakian border, is the delightful little Moravian spa retreat. A lack of motor traffic on the spa-centre strip alongside the river makes it a delight to cycle, and the rustic, woody architecture combines Art Nouveau with Slovakian village chic. I rather like it.
There’s also zillions of places to eat and drink cheap, and a super little bike path east alongside the river up to a reservoir – popular with families on bikes, roller skates and scooters – where there are even more kiosks, pub-restos and stalls with further refreshment opportunities. All this, and direct trains back to Prague! You can guess which of these four spa towns is my favourite…