The final day of the Slovakian End to End proved perhaps the most enjoyable cycle-touring of the lot. Especially for fans of wooden churches, such as Eastern Slovakian Orthodox adherents, termites, those with an aversion to nails, and now, cycle bloggers. Indeed, I saw three fine full-size examples in situ today, as well as several…
Category: Slovakia
Slovakia 13: Vranov nad Topľou to Snina
Another short, easy, mostly flat day in scenery that could have been Lowlands Scotland. Especially for the frequency of Co-ops: yes, shops are open again after the Easter break, so I could buy proper food on the go from the ubiquitous village potraviny. After a miserable day of petrol-station crisps and biscuits yesterday, my usual…
Slovakia 12: Prešov to Vranov nad Topľou
It’s Easter still. And everything was. Still, I mean. All shops closed, all roads (almost) empty. The only refreshment possibilities were on petrol station shelves, in packets or with ring-pulls. I set off from Prešov through silent, echoing retail parks and through silent, echoing villages. In one village, though, I did see a curious Slovak…
(Slovakia 11: Around Košice)
An easy day of exploring Košice by bike, rounded off with a beer specially brewed for cyclists. No wonder Czech and Slovak brewers are often said to be the world’s best. I rode south from the city centre along the riverbank cycle path. It’s part of EV11, a 6,500km-long monster ‘Eurovelo’ route that links northern…
(Slovakia 10: Prešov to Košice)
In brackets, as this is a side-trip to Slovakia’s lovely second city. I’ll sit out Easter in a place big enough for some restaurants and bars to be open, and I’ll resume the main ride from Prešov on Monday. It would be a terrible waste to come to Slovakia, one of the world’s great places…
Slovakia 9: Spišská Nová Ves to Prešov
Yesterday was a day off the bike: a day of admin, laundry, sightseeing by bus (the historic walled town of Levoča), and drinking green beer. (Evidently a special, brewed for Easter, maybe? I tried to imagine hints of apple, gooseberry, mint, kale, bayleaf or new-mown grass, but it just tasted of beer.) So I was…
Slovakia 7: Štrba to Spišská Nová Ves
A beautiful, windless spring day of cloudless skies, snowy mountains – and scary steel ladders. Because, in the middle of more delightful cycling, I did a remarkable metalwork-assisted gorge walk in Slovenský Raj National Park. A bit intimidating, but obviously I never thought of turning back. Largely because you can’t – it’s one way only….
Slovakia 6: Ružomberok to Štrba
A glorious day of windless sunshine, blue skies, and the snowy peaks of the High Tatras as backdrop. I was lucky, and just to prove it, I even saw a sign for it. (It’s pronounced more like ‘looch-key’.) I scooted out early on quiet country lanes from my rural guesthouse and bought provisions from one…
Slovakia 5: Žilina to Ružomberok
After all those browns and greys of my old Soviet hotel, the cobalt blue sky of the morning came as a relief. I wondered why the back road, suggested as a quiet way out of town by my phone’s basic mapping app, was so busy. The answer soon appeared, a stark grey building in the…
Slovakia 4: Trenčín to Žilina
Is there a guidebook to Slovakian bus shelters? If not, I could write one – I seemed to spend much of my time today inside them, dodging sudden flurries of rain, sleet or snow. It was a long and sometimes humdrum day with a fair bit of tedious road riding along ‘Cycle Route 002’, which…