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Category: End to Ends

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Austria 12: Vienna to Hainburg

Posted on 26 October 202228 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

If this Austrian End to End started with Bangs, it ended with – well, not exactly whimpers, but maybe a shrug and a meh. The last few foggy, drearily uneventful floodbank-top miles of Danube Path were like Philip Glass played on a hurdy-gurdy. For five hours. Except that I rather enjoyed the quiet solitude of…

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(Austria 11: Vienna Ringstrasse)

Posted on 25 October 202221 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

A rest day (hence the brackets) in Vienna. Nigel went to Budapest to have lunch, while I stayed in town to do chores. I replaced brake blocks, did laundry, and attended to some work admin. Not especially because I had to, but I thought it sounded good to say I was ‘doing some writing from…

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Austria 10: Melk to Vienna

Posted on 24 October 202221 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

Johann Strauss’s first draft of what was to become On the beautiful blue Danube was a mundane song praising the virtues of street lighting. (This is true.) Well, today’s stretch of Danube path was definitely more in that vein than the azure lilt of the more famous version. It was foggy and chilly most of…

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Austria 9: Linz to Melk

Posted on 23 October 202221 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

It wasn’t exactly Instagram weather for the runners doing the Linz Marathon this morning: thick fog, with a visibility of less than five metres. A hot-air balloon, burners roaring, was preparing for take-off, which seemed a trifle optimistic. The lack of views wasn’t going to trouble us unduly though. We spent all day following the…

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Austria 8: Schwanenstadt to Linz

Posted on 22 October 202219 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

The forecast rain came as something of a relief after days of autumn sun. It’s possible to have too much honey, after all. But all this Scotch mist was making me a little homesick, as was the headline in the morning paper about our government back home: Britisches Chaos. We had a good-humoured conversation about…

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Austria 7: Salzburg to Schwanenstadt

Posted on 21 October 202218 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

With nobody at hostel reception to open up the bike store for me, we couldn’t check out. So I took matters, and the key, into my own hands, trespassing behind the unstaffed counter and rummaging in a drawer to find it. It was a damp, cloudy morning, as if the weather had suddenly remembered overnight…

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Austria 6: St Veit to Salzburg

Posted on 20 October 202216 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

A plunge to the valley floor this morning, and then a day of more green and lovely plains in warm autumn mountainscapes. And, perhaps most pleasingly, a rhubarb Streusel: sunny Austrian castle-town cafe meets gloomy Yorkshire forcing-shed. One stretch of riverside cycle path in Bischofshofen was so good we could have turned right round and…

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Austria 5: Kitzbühel to St Veit

Posted on 19 October 202215 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

Thanks to the hens and ducks in the hostel garden, we could enjoy a fine breakfast of fresh poached eggs on toast. Thanks to my cooking, they turned out scrambled. Thanks to my aim, they were barely on the plate, never mind the toast Still, it set us up for the morning, and I proved…

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Austria 4: Innsbruck to Kitzbühel

Posted on 18 October 202214 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

Another glorious day of sunshine, smooth paths and thrilling scenery. Our fast, flat run out of Innsbruck was punctuated by a fine rich coffee and pastry in a classy historic-centre cafe. That clearly doesn’t narrow it down when trying to identify where it was, because it seems all Austrian cafes are like that. We lunched…

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Austria 3: Langen am Arlberg to Innsbruck

Posted on 17 October 202214 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

A sixty-mile descent to Innsbruck today, all in gloriously sunny autumn weather on beautiful car-free paths. First though we had to get up to the 1800m summit of the Arlberg Pass, fuelled by about half-a-dozen eggs each from our splendid guesthouse breakfast. Not your ordinary lays, but fresh quail’s eggs, from their own organic smallholding….

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