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Denmark 4: Kirke Sonnerup to Nyhavn

Posted on 28 May 20255 July 2025 by Rob Ainsley

Our Denmark Side to Side finished today: at Nyhavn. The colourful harbour is one of Copenhagen’s major tourist tick-boxes, and more picturesque than the underwhelming Little Mermaid. It felt a suitable end point. To get there we had a straight run of thirty-odd miles on good main road bike paths past Roskilde. Nigel’s mechanical concerns…

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Denmark 3: Odense to Kirke Sonnerup

Posted on 27 May 202529 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

A long day – 75 miles – and a rainy one, but thanks to Denmark’s quiet country lanes and good separated bike paths, rather fun. If you call cycling in the rain fun. Which, being a cycle tourist, I often do. We surfed the commuter tide out of Odense on decent and well-signed bike infra….

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Denmark 2: Kolding to Odense

Posted on 26 May 202529 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

Danish hostels are not cheap, but the breakfast was just what I needed: a big buffet of fruit, cold cuts, fresh bread, yoghurt, salad, coffee and juices. A cold cut above the average English hostel, I must say, although something this hostel has in common with its British counterparts is that it’s on top of…

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Denmark 1: Blåvand to Kolding

Posted on 25 May 202525 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

I did Denmark last year ‘bottom to top’ (Padborg to Skagen, all the way up Jutland). Like the slightly guilty fan of the pricey coffee and full-fat pastries in a hygge cafe, I enjoyed it so much that I’m here again, to do the happy cycling country ‘side to side’. That is, from Blåvand on…

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Czechia 9: Frýdek-Místek to Třinec

Posted on 22 May 202516 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

As Robert Burns said, the best laid plans of cycle tourers gang aft agley. We finished the Czech End to End today, though things ganged a bit agley. We didn’t have time to explore all that Frýdek-Místek has to offer – we must come back one day when we have a spare ten minutes –…

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Czechia 8: Olomouc to Frýdek-Místek

Posted on 21 May 202515 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

Another terrible night. I wouldn’t wish long-term seafood poisoning on too many people (although I can think of a few populist politicians). Breakfast was only apple juice and water. I clearly wasn’t going to be cycling all the way to our target of Frýdek-Místek today, our penultimate day. But I managed half or so in…

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Czechia 7: Brno to Olomouc

Posted on 20 May 202514 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

Things were looking up this morning: my breakfast stayed in, and I quickly got out, reversing the situation of the last few days post-food-poisoning. We followed the path north from Brno along the Svitava River, a lovely little trail on an untrafficked lane that hugged the woodsy waterside. Eventually we rejoined the road, and Nigel…

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Czechia 6: Kuklík to Brno

Posted on 19 May 202514 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

It was a dishcloth morning: damp, grey, cold, with recent ones unsettlingly indistinguishable from much older ones. Anyway, untrafficked and unfenced lanes trickled their way through farmland and woods, up and then down, flat and then down and then up. At times I felt stranded in some sort of eternally repeating GIF. Not unpleasantly, though….

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Czechia 5: Kolín to Kuklík

Posted on 18 May 202511 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

A full day’s cycling today, involving a lot of hills, and Czechia’s most bizarre garden. I managed to ride the whole rather challenging route thanks to (1) a long sleep last night and (2) bland supermarket food, curated to not further upset a stomach chaotically overturned by those radioactive mussels in Prague. Heading out of…

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Czechia 4: Prague to Kolín

Posted on 17 May 202511 June 2025 by Rob Ainsley

You never know what a bike tour is going to throw up. This morning, unfortunately, it was the contents of my stomach. At 7am, after a sleepless, writhing and uncomfortable night, I frantically shooed Nigel out of the bathroom, where he was doing what you’d expect – working on his bike – and acknowledge the…

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