‘A wild-swims-cycle-route photoshoot’ sounds more glamorous than it is. No film crew, make-up tents, Michelin-star cuisine, or five-star hotels for me and photographer Joe. Just him on his Condor gravel bike toting a camera bag, and me on my tourer carting trunks and wetsuit. We stayed in pub rooms, ate fish and chips, and I…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Utrecht: Goodbye motorway, hello bike paths
I just spent a few days exploring Utrecht, inside and outside the city, for another article. Even by Dutch standards, this is a bike-friendly place: over 60% of city-centre trips are pedalled, and outstanding cycleways – wide, smooth, continuous, and with priority at junctions – are everywhere. Nobody knows how many kilometres of bike path…
(Belgium 7: St Vith to Spa)
With the End to End completed, today I cycled from St Vith to the train station at Spa to head home. To my delight, I realised I could do the entire 35-mile trip on the RAVeL network: Belgium’s excellent paved, wide, smooth, car-free cycleway system, generally on towpaths or railtrails. Most of the day there…
Belgium 6: Sankt Vith to Krewinkel
I completed my Belgian End-to-End with a 17-mile hop to the border this morning. Well, Belgium’s pretty good at handling hops. It was all very German feeling, of course: the look and feel of the houses, chalets and forests, hilly landscapes, and car dealerships. The ‘official’ easternmost settlement is Krewinkel, a village that was described…
Belgium 5: Liège to Sankt Vith
A sandwich of a route today: two bread-and-butter railtrails on the outside, with a meaty middle of Belgium’s highest point. All of this took me from the French-speaking heart of the country to its German-speaking minority eastern fringe. So instead of un sandwich, make that ein belegtes Brot. The forecast wasn’t anything to write home…
Belgium 4: Wavre to Liège
Today was a colourful affair of mostly riverside riding, the colours being forest green and cement factory grey. Yes, the Meuse is a grand waterway, but like most of Belgium, industry is never far away. But first I went through the Centre of Belgium. The country’s exact centroid – as determined by their equivalent of…
Belgium 3: Gent to Wavre
A functional day today, all on good main-road-cycle-paths, through Brussels and across the great linguistic divide. And all in perfect weather: sunny but not glaring, warm but not hot, breezy but not windy. I glided along canalsides from my Gent hostel with a continental buffet breakfast inside me, with a Dutch twist, in the shape…
Belgium 2: De Panne to Gent
It was too early to explore De Panne’s adventure park, Plopsaland, as I left. In a cartoonishly Belgian touch, it’s named after a gnome called Plop. Not a real gnome, obviously, but a character from a children’s TV series. I wonder what effect this sort of thing has on shaping national character. Belgium was, after…
Belgium 1: (Dunkirk to) De Panne
Ah, Belgium. Where beer, chips and chocolate are culture. And three countries for the price of one – the Dutch-, French-, and German-speaking ones. Which may explain why it feels so expensive. But I’ve been here many times, always enjoyed myself hugely, and now I’m doing the place properly with an End to End. Which…
Amsterdam: Scenes from a cycle city
Returning to England from Slovakia, I had a final layover in Amsterdam between overnight bus and Eurostar. I spent a very happy five hours in the chilly sunshine exploring the centre easily and efficiently, thanks to the city’s cycle path system. With all those cyclists intent on getting somewhere, things can be hectic in the…