‘Norber Erratics’. Jazzband collective? Invitation cricket touring XI? No, another Yorkshire scenic gem: strange rock formations in Three Peaks country, near Ingleborough. Huge sandstone rocks balance precariously on narrow limestone props, as if positioned by some award-winning outdoors sculptor. The sandstone blocks are ‘erratics’: intruders, deposited by glaciers long long ago, before the internet, before…
Category: Yorkshire Ridings
Dean Head: Cutting remarks
England’s highest motorway; Britain’s biggest single-arch bridge; Europe’s deepest roadway cutting; a farm stranded in the middle of the M62. Welcome to Dean Head. It may sound like a 1980s Aussie cricketer – father, perhaps, of Travis – but for civil engineers this is one of Yorkshire’s most renowned places. It’s up in the Pennines…
Lake Semerwater: Welcome to Lake Lakelakelake
Torpenhow Hill in Lancashire is sometimes said to the most redundantly named thing in Britain, because all four elements (tor, pen, how, hill) mean ‘hill’. But anything Lancashire can do, Yorkshire can do better. Lake Semerwater, just south of Bainbridge in Wensleydale, also has a quadruple name: ‘lake-sea-mere-water’, each element meaning exactly (or to be…
Buttertubs: You’ve done the Pass, now try the beer
Jeremy Clarkson calls Buttertubs Pass one of his favourite roads, but that won’t put me off. Because Buttertubs is, indeed, one of Yorkshire’s most impressive cycling experiences. And therefore England’s. And arguably the world’s, though you’d have to be very argumentative to go that far. The road scrambles its way north from Hawes in Wensleydale…
Thirsk: Thoroughly vetted
Both the 1980s and 2020s TV settings of All Creatures Great and Small, James Herriot’s heartwarming tales of a vet’s life in mid-1900s Yorkshire, were shot mainly in Askrigg and the Dales. But Herriot himself – real name Alf Wight – in fact lived and practised in Thirsk. Nothing about the town is familiar to…
Emmerdale: The village that doesn’t exist
Of all 57 Yorkshire dales, Emmerdale is the best-known. Which is remarkable, as it doesn’t exist. Emmerdale is, of course, fictional: the creation of the long-running TV soap which, from the first episodes in 1972 to 1989, was known as Emmerdale Farm. Which, confusingly, was set in the equally fictional Beckindale, though this was renamed…
Bingley Arms: Time to chill at Britain’s oldest pub
We pub pretty well in Yorkshire: 3,725 of them in all (or only 17, if you believe Wikipedia). These include not just the highest of all Britain’s 45,000 boozers (the Tan Hill Inn up in the Dales, 528m up, to be precise); but also the oldest. There are many claimants (this site lists 15) but…
North Cave Wetlands: Gravel is for the birds
Gravel roads, gravel pits, gravel bike. Perhaps you can spot the theme here: birds. Most weeks I cycle from York to my mum’s, outside Hull. At just the right point for a refreshment stop, about three-quarters of the way, is North Cave Wetlands: a quarry being turned into a 21st-century nature reserve. It has lakes,…
Football: Coming home to an odd-named place
A place called Football. With the 2020 Euros currently taking place right now in, er, June 2021, I couldn’t resist cycling it. Football is a terraced street in Yeadon, on Leeds’s western outskirts. If you’ve ever flown in to Leeds Bradford Intergalactic Airport, you might have glimpsed it during your white-knuckle descent sideways against the…
Yorks B to B 2: Malton to Middlesbrough Transporter Bridge
Day 2 of my Bridges End to End featured awesome Moors landscapes all to myself, and the bizarre Meccano-monster bridge at the top of Yorkshire. I resumed from Malton where I finished Day 1, and conscious of its ‘food town’ image, stocked up with a sausage roll and pork pie from Thomas the Baker in…









