Cycling adventures across Yorkshire, Britain and beyond
I was in Birmingham to investigate a cycle cafe – Gorilla, in King’s Heath – and had a chance to ride a few stretches of bike path during my spin round the city. Many of these bike paths were sparkling examples of the genre, because they were full of broken glass. Birmingham must be the…
Torpenhow Hill in Lancashire is sometimes said to the most redundantly named thing in Britain, because all four elements (tor, pen, how, hill) mean ‘hill’. But anything Lancashire can do, Yorkshire can do better. Lake Semerwater, just south of Bainbridge in Wensleydale, also has a quadruple name: ‘lake-sea-mere-water’, each element meaning exactly (or to be…
Jeremy Clarkson calls Buttertubs Pass one of his favourite roads, but that won’t put me off. Because Buttertubs is, indeed, one of Yorkshire’s most impressive cycling experiences. And therefore England’s. And arguably the world’s, though you’d have to be very argumentative to go that far. The road scrambles its way north from Hawes in Wensleydale…
Both the 1980s and 2020s TV settings of All Creatures Great and Small, James Herriot’s heartwarming tales of a vet’s life in mid-1900s Yorkshire, were shot mainly in Askrigg and the Dales. But Herriot himself – real name Alf Wight – in fact lived and practised in Thirsk. Nothing about the town is familiar to…
Bike pace is perfect for getting under the skin of things, as countless mosquitoes and fleas chomping me this summer could verify. And today’s ride – a sixty-mile circuit west of Thirsk via Masham and Ripon – revealed some delightful bits of quirky, off-piste Yorkshire. From Thirsk’s market square I headed northwest past the racecourse…
Little back lanes through little back villages got me to Eccleshall, a handsome small town that has more than you’d expect from something of this size: craft-beer bars, artisan bakeries, Young Offender Institutions. After some thought I decided the most appropriate of those for me just now was the artisan bakery, and snaffled a gourmet…
The morning was silent, save the gentle throb of hangovers from the neighbouring tents. A short day in prospect today, with the Welsh hills behind me. And the Shropshire hills in front of me. I explored Welshpool, which didn’t quite have the picturesque centre I imagined, though I got a glimpse of the canal towpath…
The railtrail up Elan Valley (NCN81) is superb: smooth flat scenic tarmac for miles, from Rhayader to the head of Garreg-Ddu reservoir. The weather was a bit less superb, grey and damp and spitty, but I was happy, winching my way up the waterside paths. Waterside information boards showed the sort of rare animals you…
On a beautiful sunny morning, a beautiful ridgetop ride from my farm campsite to Aberaeron. I’d not even heard of it before, but it turned out to be a pleasant harbour town with a high count of bistros, cafes, and agreeable locals giving me helpful route suggestions. I headed east out of town along the…
With international travel tricky, I’m doing Geneva to Florence, for a possible magazine article. Not from Switzerland to Italy via the Alps, though: it’s from Carmarthen to the Potteries via mid-Wales mountains. Which means some spectacular passes, at least. Geneva, Wales is pretty small. Not a village. Not even a hamlet. Not even a farmhouse….