On a beautiful sunny morning, a beautiful ridgetop ride from my farm campsite to Aberaeron. I’d not even heard of it before, but it turned out to be a pleasant harbour town with a high count of bistros, cafes, and agreeable locals giving me helpful route suggestions. I headed east out of town along the…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Geneva to Florence 1: Carmarthen to Geneva
With international travel tricky, I’m doing Geneva to Florence, for a possible magazine article. Not from Switzerland to Italy via the Alps, though: it’s from Carmarthen to the Potteries via mid-Wales mountains. Which means some spectacular passes, at least. Geneva, Wales is pretty small. Not a village. Not even a hamlet. Not even a farmhouse….
Emmerdale: The village that doesn’t exist
Of all 57 Yorkshire dales, Emmerdale is the best-known. Which is remarkable, as it doesn’t exist. Emmerdale is, of course, fictional: the creation of the long-running TV soap which, from the first episodes in 1972 to 1989, was known as Emmerdale Farm. Which, confusingly, was set in the equally fictional Beckindale, though this was renamed…
Bingley Arms: Time to chill at Britain’s oldest pub
We pub pretty well in Yorkshire: 3,725 of them in all (or only 17, if you believe Wikipedia). These include not just the highest of all Britain’s 45,000 boozers (the Tan Hill Inn up in the Dales, 528m up, to be precise); but also the oldest. There are many claimants (this site lists 15) but…
North Cave Wetlands: Gravel is for the birds
Gravel roads, gravel pits, gravel bike. Perhaps you can spot the theme here: birds. Most weeks I cycle from York to my mum’s, outside Hull. At just the right point for a refreshment stop, about three-quarters of the way, is North Cave Wetlands: a quarry being turned into a 21st-century nature reserve. It has lakes,…
Football: Coming home to an odd-named place
A place called Football. With the 2020 Euros currently taking place right now in, er, June 2021, I couldn’t resist cycling it. Football is a terraced street in Yeadon, on Leeds’s western outskirts. If you’ve ever flown in to Leeds Bradford Intergalactic Airport, you might have glimpsed it during your white-knuckle descent sideways against the…
Hexham 4: Along the Tyne to the Toon
It was all go with the flow today, following the Tyne downriver to Newcastle mainly along the fine NCN72, with a friendly tailwind. I investigated a few back lanes north and east of Hexham, ending up ruling more out than in for my routes article, but did enjoy some excellent ridgetop views, quiet roads, and…
Hexham 3: Pennines mightier than the sward
Dales, moortops, bits of the C2C, England’s third-highest road and the very centre of Britain (maybe): there was plenty of variety today, as well as breathtaking climbs and descents. Haltwhistle, further along the Newcastle–Carlise rail line from Hexham (which may give you a clue as to how I had a slap-up breakfast and still got…
Hexham 2: Wall in a day’s work
Hadrian’s Wall has many things in common with the Great Wall of China, such as not being visible from the Moon. It was certainly visible from our circuit today though, on quiet narrow lanes, in, over and through some big Northumbrian landscapes. From Hexham we struck north past the old Roman fort at Chesters, and…
Hexham 1: Beer in abbeyance
I was biking for a few days in and around the abbey town of Hexham, on the Tyne in Northumberland, researching routes with my friend Tim. We spent many hours exploring the town, most of it a vain search for decent beer. The pleasant market square is dominated by mighty religious buildings such as the…









