I was in Aberystwyth for a photoshoot, so came a day early, intent on a ride in the hills. However, my plans to ride a circuit involving Nant-y-Moch Reservoirs was foiled by a road closure – the viaduct was completely out of action – and my backup plan of investigating a cycle cafe was also…
Category: Route research
Nottingham: Ye Olde Trip to Beeston
‘A journey of a thousand miles’, Lao Tzu said, ‘begins with a single malt. But a pint will do.’ Medieval pilgrims en route to the Holy Lands would, it’s said, start off with an ale or two at Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, a pub that’s been refreshing travellers since 1189. (It claims to be…
Northampton 3: Rain men
Heavy rain scaled down today’s plans. Less emphasis on distance, and more emphasis on avocado and salmon breakfasts on sourdough toasts in the lovely cafe in Castle Ashby. It was already drizzling when we struck east along the Nene and through the Wetlands, which were living up to their name, except perhaps the ‘-lands’ bit….
Northampton 2: Village people
A gentle, pleasant, sunny day of Northants countryside: thatchy villages with churches and cottages in orange-red stone, none quite fetching enough for a picture postcard, but all pleasant. Though with stamps the price they are these days, that was just as well. We headed west from the centre along the River Nene, which is pronounced…
Northampton 1: Railtrails, reservoirs and forest roads to boot
The place still makes a few boots and shoes, none of them for cycling though. But on Day 1 of my route research around Northampton, the boot was on the other foot: my gravel foot, not my road bike foot. Having paused to admire the Guildhall, and come away from the tourist office in the…
Birmingham: More cycle paths than Venice
I was in Birmingham to investigate a cycle cafe – Gorilla, in King’s Heath – and had a chance to ride a few stretches of bike path during my spin round the city. Many of these bike paths were sparkling examples of the genre, because they were full of broken glass. Birmingham must be the…
Thirsk: Hidden bridges, collapsing walls, secret sculptures
Bike pace is perfect for getting under the skin of things, as countless mosquitoes and fleas chomping me this summer could verify. And today’s ride – a sixty-mile circuit west of Thirsk via Masham and Ripon – revealed some delightful bits of quirky, off-piste Yorkshire. From Thirsk’s market square I headed northwest past the racecourse…
Geneva to Florence 5: Newport to Florence
Little back lanes through little back villages got me to Eccleshall, a handsome small town that has more than you’d expect from something of this size: craft-beer bars, artisan bakeries, Young Offender Institutions. After some thought I decided the most appropriate of those for me just now was the artisan bakery, and snaffled a gourmet…
Geneva to Florence 4: Welshpool to Newport
The morning was silent, save the gentle throb of hangovers from the neighbouring tents. A short day in prospect today, with the Welsh hills behind me. And the Shropshire hills in front of me. I explored Welshpool, which didn’t quite have the picturesque centre I imagined, though I got a glimpse of the canal towpath…
Geneva to Florence 3: Elan Valley to Welshpool
The railtrail up Elan Valley (NCN81) is superb: smooth flat scenic tarmac for miles, from Rhayader to the head of Garreg-Ddu reservoir. The weather was a bit less superb, grey and damp and spitty, but I was happy, winching my way up the waterside paths. Waterside information boards showed the sort of rare animals you…