A rest day today, but I was still up early, rewarded by some stunning views of the hillscape mists (pic). It’s chilly at night up here in Hill Country: there are actually sheets and blankets on the bed (elsewhere there’s nothing), the windows had condensation this morning, and I needed my fleece to go out…
Category: End to Ends
Sri Lanka 7: Balangoda to Haputale
A short distance today – just 30 miles, whatever that is in km – but very strenuous ones, into Hill Country. There was around 1500m of climb, whatever that is in feet. But the dawn start from Balangoda was a delight, cycling through sunrise rice paddies to the sound of birdsong. Lots of steady climbing,…
Sri Lanka 6: Udawalawe to Balangoda
Along with my guesthousemates, I went out on a morning safari. Udawalawe National Park (pic) is one of the world’s best places to see elephants in the wild. Apparently they drink 200 litres of water a day, which is what I felt like doing once I got cycling later on. But we also saw loads…
Sri Lanka 5: Tangalla to Udawalawe
More glorious cycling on a hot day, relieved by cream sodas and excellent curries. Heading north from Tangalla I visited the Rock Temples of Mulkirigala. They’re up this rock (pic). In the long climb to the top you pass five temples that contain enormous reclining Buddhas (pic). They rather put me in mind of the…
Sri Lanka 4: (Galle to) Dondra Head to Tangalla
At last I got cycling today, starting from Galle at 6am with only the sound of birdsong, and of my rattling mudguard that was trashed by Etihad’s baggage handlers. I followed the A2 south, stopping off for a typical Sri Lankan breakfast en route (pic): rice; fish curry; dhal; and something evidently consisting of coconut,…
Sri Lanka 3: Galle
I’m desperate to get cycling, but with admirable restraint, I got the train this morning down to Galle, a tourist must-see. In Sri Lanka, you book your bike as a parcel, and it costs three times as much for the bike as for a single fare. But with the single fare costing under a pound…
Sri Lanka 2: Colombo
A day of walking around the centre of Colombo, waiting for my bike and luggage to be returned to me. I was quite taken with the old building, now almost empty, that used to house Cargill’s department store (pic). The colonnades still help shoppers dodge the monsoon rains or the noonday sun, but not English…
Sri Lanka 1: Colombo
I arrived safely in Colombo at four this morning. My luggage didn’t. Etihad managed to lose it somewhere en route last night. Most of my bike did turn up, though that’s more of a hindrance than help: the pedals and tools to reassemble it (and mend the minor damage such as trashed mudguards and bottle…
Sri Lanka 0: Colombo
I spent a sleepless 36 hours getting from York to Colombo, the idea being to cycle the Sri Lankan End to End. Etihad’s seatback entertainment didn’t entice me, and I spent most of the 12 plane hours staring at the live map. But I was disappointed when I clicked on the heading ‘Cycle Maps’. It…
Isle of Man 2: Douglas to Point of Ayre (to Douglas)
So, having started yesterday, this is our final day. We rode up the road that serves as part of the TT (‘Tourist Trophy’) course, the legendary annual motorbike race much loved for its lethal danger, which has been won by legendary riders such as Joey Dunlop and George Formby. On a previous trip with Tim…