Returning to England from Slovakia, I had a final layover in Amsterdam between overnight bus and Eurostar. I spent a very happy five hours in the chilly sunshine exploring the centre easily and efficiently, thanks to the city’s cycle path system. With all those cyclists intent on getting somewhere, things can be hectic in the…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Prague: A1 time along the Vltava
I had a couple of days spare after finishing the Slovakia End to End, so I went to Prague. I had no plan, but I had a bike, and that’s all you need. The city is justly feted as one of Europe’s most elegant and visitable, and the cheap but excellent beer is a welcome…
Slovakia 14: Snina to Nová Sedlica
The final day of the Slovakian End to End proved perhaps the most enjoyable cycle-touring of the lot. Especially for fans of wooden churches, such as Eastern Slovakian Orthodox adherents, termites, those with an aversion to nails, and now, cycle bloggers. Indeed, I saw three fine full-size examples in situ today, as well as several…
Slovakia 13: Vranov nad Topľou to Snina
Another short, easy, mostly flat day in scenery that could have been Lowlands Scotland. Especially for the frequency of Co-ops: yes, shops are open again after the Easter break, so I could buy proper food on the go from the ubiquitous village potraviny. After a miserable day of petrol-station crisps and biscuits yesterday, my usual…
Slovakia 12: Prešov to Vranov nad Topľou
It’s Easter still. And everything was. Still, I mean. All shops closed, all roads (almost) empty. The only refreshment possibilities were on petrol station shelves, in packets or with ring-pulls. I set off from Prešov through silent, echoing retail parks and through silent, echoing villages. In one village, though, I did see a curious Slovak…
(Slovakia 11: Around Košice)
An easy day of exploring Košice by bike, rounded off with a beer specially brewed for cyclists. No wonder Czech and Slovak brewers are often said to be the world’s best. I rode south from the city centre along the riverbank cycle path. It’s part of EV11, a 6,500km-long monster ‘Eurovelo’ route that links northern…
(Slovakia 10: Prešov to Košice)
In brackets, as this is a side-trip to Slovakia’s lovely second city. I’ll sit out Easter in a place big enough for some restaurants and bars to be open, and I’ll resume the main ride from Prešov on Monday. It would be a terrible waste to come to Slovakia, one of the world’s great places…
Slovakia 9: Spišská Nová Ves to Prešov
Yesterday was a day off the bike: a day of admin, laundry, sightseeing by bus (the historic walled town of Levoča), and drinking green beer. (Evidently a special, brewed for Easter, maybe? I tried to imagine hints of apple, gooseberry, mint, kale, bayleaf or new-mown grass, but it just tasted of beer.) So I was…
Slovakia 7: Štrba to Spišská Nová Ves
A beautiful, windless spring day of cloudless skies, snowy mountains – and scary steel ladders. Because, in the middle of more delightful cycling, I did a remarkable metalwork-assisted gorge walk in Slovenský Raj National Park. A bit intimidating, but obviously I never thought of turning back. Largely because you can’t – it’s one way only….
Slovakia 6: Ružomberok to Štrba
A glorious day of windless sunshine, blue skies, and the snowy peaks of the High Tatras as backdrop. I was lucky, and just to prove it, I even saw a sign for it. (It’s pronounced more like ‘looch-key’.) I scooted out early on quiet country lanes from my rural guesthouse and bought provisions from one…









