Orléans looked splendid in this morning’s sunshine. The city’s most famous son is a daughter: Joan of Arc, defender of the French Nation, who played a big role in the Siege of Orléans in the 1400s. She is commemorated in many ways, such as a cannabis shop called the Marie Jeanne d’Arc CBD. I think…
Category: Route research
Loire 8: Blois to Orléans
Another easy-going day of level riverside riding. The Loire route is not for seekers of thrills and spills, though I did almost spill some of my coffee this morning in a Blois cafe. (As for pastries, I’d had those back at the tent, thanks to the morning bakery delivery service that’s common at French campsites.)…
Loire 7: Tours to Blois
Yesterday was heavy rain all day so I stayed in Tours and just cycled – well, aquaplaned mostly – round town, exploring the very decent bike infrastructure. This morning, with my new-found knowledge of the city’s layout, I splashed my way to the doctor to show off my impressive collection of insect bites, and colourfully…
Loire 5: Candes to Tours
Today was one long sequence of gentle, quiet paths through woods, farms and river plains. Not much happened, but it happened enjoyably. With heavy rain forecast I booked a hostel in Tours for tonight, a mere 59km away according to the sign outside last night’s campsite. An hour along the path, all delightfully quiet, Tours…
Loire 4: Ponts-de-Cé to Candes
A good full day of easy riverside riding today, involving all the Loire tropes: cathedrals and chateaux, latticework bridges, bike-friendly campsites, wineries, giant wine bottles, tripe sausages, crushed Renaults, and nuclear power stations. My campsite last night was only five miles from Angers, a fine cathedral and castle city, so I nipped up for a…
Loire 3: Nantes to Ponts-de-Cé
After two short days I thought I’d better get some miles in, and with half-decent weather forecast, planned a substantial day of sixty-odd miles. It was fairly easy, thanks to the Loire path being well-signed, flat, smooth, and with cars outnumbered by artisan boulangeries. It would have been even better if some of them had…
Loire 2: Paimbœuf to Nantes
When I started my mug of Yorkshire tea this morning it was bright sunshine. By the time I finished it was torrential rain. And it’s not a very large mug. Yes, the weather has abruptly turned for the worse, like a hitherto friendly drunk in the pub who suddenly takes offence at some imagined insult….
Loire 1: Saint-Nazaire to Paimbœuf
What do cycling writers do on holiday, when they’re not writing about a cycle tour? They go on a cycle tour. Hoping they might be able to write about it later on. But I’ve had the Loire Valley on my radar for a long time, and at last I’m doing it: 600km of flat, easy…
Lowther Hill: Scotland’s biggest climb on the radar
Scotland’s highest cyclable tarmac road is, delightfully, closed to motor traffic. It’s the access to a NATS air-traffic control radar station and suite of comms towers up the top of Lowther Hill. They’re a couple of miles’ ascent from Wanlockhead, Scotland’s highest village – which, surprisingly for some, is not in the Highlands but down…
NCN7: Killin me softly, and a date with Callander
The twentyish miles between Killin, on the end of Loch Tay, and Trossachs-gateway Callander, are some of my favourite bits of the National Cycle-route Network. NCN7 runs, and occasionally stumbles over rocks, nearly 550 sometimes questionable miles in its entirety from Sunderland to Inverness. I’ve done this section of it a couple of times before,…