With time short today – I had to be in Bruges by the evening – I utilised the fact I was on a folding bike and took a bus short cut back up the hill to Bertrix, which I cycled through yesterday. (It’s ‘bear-tree’, not ‘bear-tricks’, by the way.) Progress was slow today, what with…
Category: Belgium
Belgium 5: Beauraing to Bouillon
Another sunny, easy, lovely day, trundling the quiet lanes and bike paths of southern Wallonia, and ending up at a place called Soup. It was straight-up freezing cold when I left my room in Beauraing at half seven this morning. I always wondered what chilblains were when my grandparents talked about them sixty years ago….
Belgium 4: Namur to Beauraing
A short day, dictated by the availability of affordable accomm… but some of the loveliest cycling so far, following the river. Eek! It’s the Meuse! I’d had a sleepless night in a noisy dorm. If only science could invent some device that enabled people to listen to music or films on their phone without disturbing…
Belgium 3: Leuven to Namur
When I did my Belgium Side to Side in 2022 I passed through the country’s central point. Now I’m doing it Top to Bottom, I just had to go through the same point. This made my two routes cross in the most appropriate way, forming a wobbly chromosome-like ‘X’ shape. Well, cycle routes are clearly…
Belgium 2: Antwerp to Leuven
A short, bright, breezy day of headwinds and towpaths. Not the narrow, lumpy, muddy tracks typically accompanying a British canal, though: here, a ‘towpath’ is a jaagpad, a wide, smooth, tarmac service road on which motor vehicles are as common as Belgian downhill skiers. With plenty of time in hand, I could dawdle round Antwerp…
Belgium 1: Essen to Antwerp
Two years ago I did Belgium End to End by doing it Side to Side. I love cycling the place because of its excellent cycle paths and its highbrow cultural experiences such as beer, chips, chocolate and comics. So now I’m doing it Top to Bottom. This will take me from Essen – not the…
(Belgium 7: St Vith to Spa)
With the End to End completed, today I cycled from St Vith to the train station at Spa to head home. To my delight, I realised I could do the entire 35-mile trip on the RAVeL network: Belgium’s excellent paved, wide, smooth, car-free cycleway system, generally on towpaths or railtrails. Most of the day there…
Belgium 6: Sankt Vith to Krewinkel
I completed my Belgian End-to-End with a 17-mile hop to the border this morning. Well, Belgium’s pretty good at handling hops. It was all very German feeling, of course: the look and feel of the houses, chalets and forests, hilly landscapes, and car dealerships. The ‘official’ easternmost settlement is Krewinkel, a village that was described…
Belgium 5: Liège to Sankt Vith
A sandwich of a route today: two bread-and-butter railtrails on the outside, with a meaty middle of Belgium’s highest point. All of this took me from the French-speaking heart of the country to its German-speaking minority eastern fringe. So instead of un sandwich, make that ein belegtes Brot. The forecast wasn’t anything to write home…
Belgium 4: Wavre to Liège
Today was a colourful affair of mostly riverside riding, the colours being forest green and cement factory grey. Yes, the Meuse is a grand waterway, but like most of Belgium, industry is never far away. But first I went through the Centre of Belgium. The country’s exact centroid – as determined by their equivalent of…