Author: Rob Ainsley

Brussels was only a stopover before taking Eurostar back home the following morning, but even though we were only walking the centre, we still got some cycling sights. Poechenellekelder, a touristy but well-rated bar lavishly endowed with Belgian beers, was also lavishly endowed with bicycles, adorning its facade to mark the Tour de France’s passage…

One of the most sublime stretches of cycle path in Germany is along the Rhine between Bingen and Koblenz, winding between storied headlands and quaint romantic villages. Instead, we rode the dull bit further downstream between Bonn and Cologne, past chemical factories and through industrial estates. To be fair, we had cycled the good bit…

Germany rivers well. (In German you can verb anything.) I’ve done some of the big-ticket waterway routes – Danube, Mosel, Elbe – so it was nice to explore some of the smaller ones. The Neckar ambles down from the Black Forest hills to join the Rhine at Mannheim, a place I now feel familiar with;…

What was it like to cycle in Ancient Rome? To find out, we cycled the classic intact-Roman-Road stretch of the Appian Way, the Empire’s A1, which ran 365 miles from the capital down to the Brindisi. As the Via Appia Antica, it’s a popular hire-bike jaunt with visitors, going from the Baths of Caracalla in…

Ah, yes. Venice. La Serenissima, whose elegant centre has been car-free since the 1600s. Bike-free too, sadly: having emerged from the train station of Santa Lucia to the abrupt, astounding canalfront facades of the old town, you are informed by signs forbidding all bikes in the historic centre, even pushed. Nigel could have hidden his…

Slovenia’s capital has two wonderful things for cyclists. First, its enormous car-free old town, a joyful sprawl of pavement cafes, bars and restaurants, alive with the gentle hubbub of pedestrians, a few bikes, and no combustion engines. Second, dumplings. After our very scenic train journey from Salzburg, with fine valley and mountain views, we enjoyed…

Salzburg, the city of Mozart, was a handy stopover for us rather than a destination for cycling. Or music. Or confectionery. (Mozartkugeln, ‘Mozart balls’, are the place’s famously kitsch celebration in spherical chocolate of the composer.) I’ve been through the city a few times before, so didn’t feel the need to linger in the old…

Freiburg, down at the bottom left corner of Germany, is often cited as one of its greenest, cyclingest cities. Certainly the central streets and roads are thick with riders, many of whose political colour you can easily guess. But as with Cambridge, another student city, you feel it’s more down to a self-sustaining cycling culture…

This morning we followed in the footsteps of the world’s first ever bike trip. Literally. Because, on 19 Apr 1943, research chemist Albert Hofmann rode 8km from his lab in central Basel to his house on the outskirts while high on a certain substance he’d just synthesised: LSD. It’s a very dull, yet also utterly…

This morning we followed in the footsteps of the world’s first ever bike ride. Literally. Because, on 12 Jun 1817, Carl von Drais rode-and-scooted 8km from central Mannheim to a coaching inn and back on what was soon called a draisienne, and what we’d now call a balance bike. It’s a very dull, yet also…