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Interrail 12: Salzburg –a Mozart ball

Posted on 22 September 202210 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

Salzburg, the city of Mozart, was a handy stopover for us rather than a destination for cycling. Or music. Or confectionery. (Mozartkugeln, ‘Mozart balls’, are the place’s famously kitsch celebration in spherical chocolate of the composer.)

The cycle paths Mozart would have used: Salzburg in the evening sun

I’ve been through the city a few times before, so didn’t feel the need to linger in the old town again.

Music to my ears: Mozart Cycle Route south of Salzburg

Nevertheless, we did have a ball, thanks to riding a short section of the Mozart Cycle Route in the morning. It took us south of the city, past Hellbrunn Palace, and along classical Austrian landscapes of wide flat meadows crossed by smooth tarmac cycle paths, fringed by alpy mountains.

Enough to make you burst into song

Mozart? Hmm. In scenery like this you’re more expecting Julie Andrews to descend singing favourites from Rodgers & Hammerstein musicals. Climb every mountain, ford every stream? Ms Andrews was clearly a keen MTBer.

Exploring the local aria

Anyway, we returned north back to the city along the river, on a decent but not especially scenic waterside gravel path, in sunny weather with just a whisper of a friendly breeze. Soave sia il vento*.

The hills are alive with the sound of squeaky brakes

(* ‘May the winds be calm’: a poignant farewell song in Mozart’s Così fan tutte, just before Guglielmo and Ferrando ride off into the distance on their bogus cycle-tour of Albania.)

Mozart’s birthplace. The Mozarts moved around Salzburg a few times in a bid to find good cycle parking.
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