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Interrail 13: Ljubljana – recipe for happy cyclists

Posted on 23 September 202210 November 2022 by Rob Ainsley

Slovenia’s capital has two wonderful things for cyclists. First, its enormous car-free old town, a joyful sprawl of pavement cafes, bars and restaurants, alive with the gentle hubbub of pedestrians, a few bikes, and no combustion engines. Second, dumplings.

View from the train en route from Salzburg

After our very scenic train journey from Salzburg, with fine valley and mountain views, we enjoyed roaming the historic centre, unmolested by cars, both on foot and on pedals. We acquainted ourselves with the local beers and red wine.

Pedestrianise centres, and you guarantee sunshine
No cars, hooray: Ljubljana’s people-friendly centre

This last came in small sizes we found ideal, was robust, smoothly put together, not too heavy, and pleasantly inexpensive. Like Nigel’s Brompton, then – in four out of five ways, at least.

Don’t worry, the road stays flat

And next day we had a fine fifty-odd kilometre ride out of town to explore some of the quiet flat country lanes that run along the foot of the lush green hills that characterise Slovenia’s landscapes. I was delighted to discover a place called Ig.

Welcome to Ig, which in Slovenian means, ‘A place that has no idea why its name is so short, nor why it should sound so amusing to English speakers’.
South of Ljubljana

However, the most delightful cycling discovery for me was štruklji These are Slovenian dumplings: dough filled with anything from meat to cheese to jam to fruit. Don’t think ‘dumpling’, though: think the consistency of cheesecake or lasagne, a little chewy but light and delicious.

Cyclist fuel extraordinaire: Ljubljana štruklji

We followed our hotel receptionist’s enthusiastic local recommendation and went to Moji štruklji in the centre of town by the market stalls to try them. I had a blueberry one. I was very happy indeed.

Bike wheels don’t grow on trees you know: Bike artwork in Ljubljana
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