At last I got cycling today, starting from Galle at 6am with only the sound of birdsong, and of my rattling mudguard that was trashed by Etihad’s baggage handlers. I followed the A2 south, stopping off for a typical Sri Lankan breakfast en route (pic): rice; fish curry; dhal; and something evidently consisting of coconut,…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Sri Lanka 3: Galle
I’m desperate to get cycling, but with admirable restraint, I got the train this morning down to Galle, a tourist must-see. In Sri Lanka, you book your bike as a parcel, and it costs three times as much for the bike as for a single fare. But with the single fare costing under a pound…
Sri Lanka 2: Colombo
A day of walking around the centre of Colombo, waiting for my bike and luggage to be returned to me. I was quite taken with the old building, now almost empty, that used to house Cargill’s department store (pic). The colonnades still help shoppers dodge the monsoon rains or the noonday sun, but not English…
Sri Lanka 1: Colombo
I arrived safely in Colombo at four this morning. My luggage didn’t. Etihad managed to lose it somewhere en route last night. Most of my bike did turn up, though that’s more of a hindrance than help: the pedals and tools to reassemble it (and mend the minor damage such as trashed mudguards and bottle…
Sri Lanka 0: Colombo
I spent a sleepless 36 hours getting from York to Colombo, the idea being to cycle the Sri Lankan End to End. Etihad’s seatback entertainment didn’t entice me, and I spent most of the 12 plane hours staring at the live map. But I was disappointed when I clicked on the heading ‘Cycle Maps’. It…
Brazil: Rio de Janeiro
I hired a bike today, which is almost always the day I enjoy most in a city. So it proved: Rio only has one cycle route, but it’s a cracker. It follows the shore for about 15km alongside the great beaches of Ipanema (pic), Copacabana and Flamengo. It shows the best of the city –…
Brazil: Paraty
I’m now in Paraty, a picture-postcard colonial beach village (pic) between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. So it’s full of damn tourists. Not even proper British ones speaking English in loud middle-class accents, but Brazilians, talking Portuguese very fast and even louder. The town’s pretty cobbled streets are closed off to cars, which means…
Brazil: Ibirapuera Park, São Paulo
I spent the morning in the São Paulo Cultural Centre – a place rather like London’s Barbican, combining library, art galleries, concert venues, free wifi public space and exhibition areas, one of which featured this fine array of wrecked cars (pic). At least I think it was an exhibit. It might have been the overflow…
Peru: Abra Málaga
I’ve signed up for a four-day ‘jungle trek’ to Machu Picchu, which involves a variety of methods of getting from Cuzco to the famous lost Inca city: hiking, zipwiring, and – today, the first day – biking. A minibus whisked our group up into the mountains via the pleasant Inca town of Ollantaytambo (pic). There’s…
Ecuador: Village life, Baños
I’m enjoying my few days in Baños, particularly the famous hot springs and baths. I expect my fellow hostellers are pleased about it, too. But today I struck out into the countryside for a spin on a hire bike. For $7 I got a surprise – an MTB that was actually big enough for me….