The longest and hardest day of the whole trip today: 74 miles’ riding (whatever that is in kilometres) and 1600m of vertical climb (whatever that is in rods, poles or perches).
After a dawn start I cycled alongside the Lot for a couple of hours on a misty, damp, atmospheric morning (pic). If you look closely, you can see that my water bottle is actually carrying local red wine from Entraygues, which is only available inside the town. It’s rather perfumey and peppery. And, now, plasticky.
Estaing is one of the many fine old towns and villages on the Lot (pic). I had a coffee here. Good job I didn’t have it outside. It started to drizzle – it’d have taken me half an hour to finish it.
The day included the biggest climb of the trip so far: the Col de Goudard, 1020m up. Obviously I didn’t understand this sign at the start of the steep bit, because it’s in French.
That climb is part of a big local annual bike event, and the tarmac – in the French cycle-sport fashion – gets decorated with messages to the riders from fans. The text is mostly riders’ nicknames, or stirring stuff such as allez or le sommet arrive – courage. But this message (pic) seemed to have been written with me in mind, as anyone who’s biked with me knows. I take frequent stops to admire the view.
At last there was some downhill (pic) and a swoop down to the town of Mende, where I found a comfy and cheap hotel right in the centre. And soon emptied that water bottle. I’ll sleep well tonight.
Miles today: 74
Miles since St Malo: 670