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Wales 5: Caernarfon to Holyhead

Posted on 16 June 200024 January 2024 by Rob Ainsley

I was out, with a quick farewell circuit of the castle, by 8ish. Today was sun sun sun at last, and Anglesey looked serene and bright over the saturated blue of the strait. I was soon across the Menai old suspension bridge, a compactly impressive thing in fat bricks. I cycled across followed by
impatient overtakers.

I rolled into Llanfairpwllgwyngyll, as the road signs have it, but we know it’s really Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch: the bogus name is the true name. I was impressed by how many places showed the full version – the station, and the souvenir complex, Menai Dry Cleaners, the Llanfairpwll Inn, and most satisfingly, Volvo, Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch branch.

I bought some and chatted a bit to the Welsh-speaking woman in the shop opposite Pringle’s. She told me the place is usually called Llanfair PG, and that disappointingly mail here is postmarked ‘Bangor’.

Finally I had a long, but quietly pleasant, ride of 25–30 miles through lanes and country roads, winding across the unspectacular rurality of Anglesey. I got to Holyhead earlier than I’d expected – before 1pm – and caught the 1.21pm train, pleased that I was ahead of schedule and all had worked out fine.

It was cancelled at Llandudno. I had to wait an hour for the next service. That one got as far as Chester before it too was withdrawn, and further delays and missed connections meant I got back to my mum’s house in Ferriby three hours later than I should have.

But… the Welsh End to End, the Lôn Las Cymru, is done, knocked off, enjoyed. Mostly. There’s some great scenery, and I hope to see it one day. On a mountain bike. In summer, whenever that falls in Wales.

Miles today: 46
Miles since Cardiff: 237

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