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Category: Britain

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Britain 3: Achmelvich to Ullapool

Posted on 16 May 20102 April 2021 by Rob Ainsley

Headwinds not so bad today, and some awesome, awesome scenery on remote back roads. Yesterday was tough so I’ve had an easy day today, with the prospect of fish and chips for dinner and a pint in the pub overlooking the harbour. Ullapool is a harbour town, so it’s a great place for fish –…

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Britain 2: Durness to Achmelvich

Posted on 15 May 20102 April 2021 by Rob Ainsley

I was up and off just after 5am this morning, partly because I was mindful of the weather forecast (strengthening headwinds throughout the day, increasing to 30mph by lunchtime) and partly because the tent was soaked following the rainstorm that woke me at 3am. But I was rewarded by this sight of a Durness shepherd…

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Britain 1: (Durness to) Cape Wrath to Durness

Posted on 14 May 20102 April 2021 by Rob Ainsley

Finally got to Cape Wrath today, to start the trip proper. Getting there involves a tiny, infrequent ferry boat from Durness across to the virtually uninhabited Cape Wrath peninsula. On the peninsula itself, it’s a desolate 11-mile track to the lighthouse, the notional most north-westerly point on the British mainland. Everyone else on the boat…

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Britain 0: Inverness to Durness

Posted on 13 May 20102 April 2021 by Rob Ainsley

I woke up to this scene from the sleeper train window this morning. Fresh snow on the mountains. Oh. The nearest you can get to Cape Wrath by train is Lairg, 60 miles away. I cycled from there along Loch Shin to Laxford Bridge, then up to Durness (nearest town to Cape Wrath), where I’m…

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Britain -1: London

Posted on 12 May 20102 April 2021 by Rob Ainsley

Am on the Sleeper to Inverness – leave Euston in ten minutes. Bargain Berth, £19, obtained through nerdy monitoring of the ScotRail site with an auto-refresh widget on the morning they became available online back in February. All rather exciting as we wait to leave. And especially pleased that the sleeper berth includes a complimentary…

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Wales 5: Caernarfon to Holyhead

Posted on 16 June 200024 January 2024 by Rob Ainsley

I was out, with a quick farewell circuit of the castle, by 8ish. Today was sun sun sun at last, and Anglesey looked serene and bright over the saturated blue of the strait. I was soon across the Menai old suspension bridge, a compactly impressive thing in fat bricks. I cycled across followed byimpatient overtakers….

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Wales 4: Corris to Caernarfon

Posted on 15 June 200024 January 2024 by Rob Ainsley

A better day all round, except for the discovery that my glasses had disappeared. (Left in Corris YH? Bizarre. Another victim of beer amnesia?) The morning ride, out into the misty hills. Green steep sides, sheep, square and stern slate houses. A long climb up a stony path, frankly unsuitable for touring bikes as well…

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Wales 3: Rhayader to Corris

Posted on 14 June 200024 January 2024 by Rob Ainsley

A bad, testing, but ultimately not unrewarding, day. I had my brake blocks replaced at Rhayader’s local bike shop and, to the ripping-off sound of velcro the size of a tablecloth, was rushed £22. I set off back into the rain……and it rained and rained and rained all day, non stop, a wall of water,…

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Wales 2: Merthyr Tydfil to Rhayader

Posted on 13 June 200024 January 2024 by Rob Ainsley

I was off by 7.45am into a miserable, nagging, repetitive drizzle. It was like a failing marriage. A convoluted series of paths, roads; a few good runs on cinder railtrails; grimy backdrops of misted hills; more drab housing… a world of grey and drained green. Eventually I came out at Ponsticill, the reservoir, ringed by…

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Wales 1: Cardiff to Merthyr Tydfil

Posted on 12 June 20004 November 2021 by Rob Ainsley

Not great weather. The air was softly textured with drizzle, so fine it enveloped me like a hangover. Though I also had a hangover, the product of a convivial stay in Bath last night, which enveloped me like drizzle. It wasn’t cold, or warm, or dry, or humid. But it was grey. Cardiff looked grim;…

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