A shortish day, but a strenuous one. Because despite yesterday evening’s ascent, we had much more climbing this morning: five hundred or so more metres, up to a summit just shy of a thousand metres. At least it would burn off last night’s burgers and beers. And give us an appetite for tonight’s.
![](https://e2e.bike/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE-Portugal-3aa.jpg)
Portugal’s cafes do breakfasts very well, and all for half what you’d expect to pay in England. Except the pastries, coffee and custard tarts are so good, I end up having double what I’d have back home, so it’s a zero-sum game.
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Tantalisingly, we passed the Raposeira factory on the way out of Lamego, as the N2 continued to rise steadily in loops and bends up the seaweed-coloured hillsides. (Seaweed, this far inland? I must be craving bacalhau.)
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Once over the crest we had a super, speedy freewheel down to the town of Castro Daire, and picked up some picnic lunch stuff from a minimarket. The trend was downhill from here but with some more pokey climbs; a fairly straightforward, enjoyable day of riding the quiet and scenic N2. Not much to Instagram, but plenty to be happy about.
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We were at Viseu by mid-afternoon. Our accomm was badged ‘Bikotel’, Portugal’s national association of bike-friendly hotels, and the sight of a town bike nonchalantly leant against the reception desk augured well.
![](https://e2e.bike/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE-Portugal-3d.jpg)
Even after a leisurely shower and cool-down there was plenty of time to explore Viseu, a pleasant place with a historic centre, on foot. Its narrow streets, like my laptop at home, have ancient versions of windows.
![](https://e2e.bike/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE-Portugal-3ea.jpg)
We had a couple of beers at a bar overlooking the central square. There were a lot of fashionable, friendly, lively young Portuguese at the next table. I felt very untattooed. Back in the newer part of town, near the hotel, was a glasshouse-like bistro where we had burgers for five euros and carafes of wine for two euros and slices of cake for one fifty.
![](https://e2e.bike/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE-Portugal-3f.jpg)
![](https://e2e.bike/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/EE-Portugal-3g.jpg)
Portugal is a very agreeable country to cycle-tour.
Miles today: 48
Miles since Chaves: 113