Today was one long sequence of gentle, quiet paths through woods, farms and river plains. Not much happened, but it happened enjoyably. With heavy rain forecast I booked a hostel in Tours for tonight, a mere 59km away according to the sign outside last night’s campsite.
An hour along the path, all delightfully quiet, Tours was now ‘56km’. Either I’d taken an hour to cover 3km (I don’t think so – I didn’t stop for a pee that many times) or they’d been using those elastic tape measures. Maybe they got them from Sustrans. But I’d seen a red squirrel, so I was happy. I’m easily pleased.
Anyway, I wasn’t alone: there were plenty of other cycle tourers on the path, usually a mature couple, often on e-bikes, occasionally with a beaming bloke in front of a less beaming lady behind.
One of the pleasures of the Loire is the morning (and mid-morning and late-morning) pastry: there are plenty of artisan boulangeries on the way. Today’s pain au choc came from a place in Avoine’s central square.
After that it was more pleasant and easy paths over flat farmland, eventually regaining the riverside. Villandry, just off the path, is a village famous for a vast chateau garden laid out with mazy hedges and colourful flowers.
I stopped off there, but I was more intent on boulangerie snacks than formal gardens.
More car-free riverside paths eventually led me through parks, past a golf course, and along a main road with a good segregated bike path into the centre.
The hostel I stayed at, The People, is a gem – cyclist friendly, and clearly run by cyclists. Various bikes decorated the walls (nice bikes, too: new gravel models, not ancient shoppers), there was excellent secure bike parking, the big screen in the common room was showing cycle racing, and even the menu was designed around bike images.
The dorm bed was great, too, comfy and fresh and with privacy curtains. I’d clearly made a good choice, and decided instantly to stay two nights, especially given the heavy rain forecast for all of tomorrow: a chance to do laptop admin, diary writing, laundry etc.
I strolled to the old town and by instinct found the go-to place for pavement beers and food, the square of ‘Place Plum’ (Plumereau). Happy Hour prices in one friendly bar there were €4 a ‘pint’ (500ml). I stayed for an hour, and was so happy I stayed for another hour. I’m easily pleased, as I said.
Another good day.
Miles today: 40
Miles since Saint-Nazaire: 198