Yesterday, Day 5, was a rest day exploring Coimbra’s mazy, steep old-town alleys, and the university area. I was intrigued by the reliefs decorating the entrance to the maths department – the stonemason was reasonably adept at mathematical notation, even if a violin f-hole has served as an integral sign.
That infinite sum for π/4, by the way, converges to its limit unimaginably slowly. Like me approaching our destination at the end of a day’s hot ride.
I was also curious about the ‘Great Academic Crisis’ of 1969, the department’s opening date, as referred to in a plaque. I thought it might be what I had a few of myself during my maths degree, but it was a student movement against the dictatorship that ruled Portugal from 1933 to 1974.
It’s a sobering thought that Portugal, like Spain, was deep in a fascist dictatorship during my lifetime. I can’t imagine how on earth a decent country can find itself ruled by crazed, self-serving, right-wing tyrants who trample over democracy and… oh.
Anyway, today it was time to get back on the road, or rather, up. It was a stiff climb out of Coimbra on back lanes, climbing high into the hills south of the Mondego valley, heading southeast to rejoin the N2.
At Lousã though, emboldened by drinking yoghurt and supermarket pastries, we decided to cut across on the more direct and less vertiginous ‘main road’ N342.
It proved far less busy than we’d feared. In fact, it was virtually deserted. Almost all the morning today I was blissfully happy, trundling along in low gears up gentle ascents through cool woods and forests. The birds were chirping away, and the views down over the hills, villages and towns far below were thrilling.
We got back on to the N2, and it was business as usual: steady gradients, little traffic, lovely scenery, stress-free cycling.
Another superb day of scenic, sunny riding climaxed at Pedrógão Pequeno, overlooking the mighty Cabril dam. Our hilltop hotel had a bird’s-eye view of, well, birds. Plus the luxury of a swimming pool.
We jumped gratefully in, invigorated by the cool waters after our long hot day of cycling. Who needs a beer when you have a pool with a setting like this?
OK, we did. Anyway, the restaurant had a pretty good view, too.
Miles today: 54
Miles since Chaves: 235