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Portugal 6: Coimbra to Pedrógão Pequeno

Posted on 14 May 20237 June 2023 by Rob Ainsley

Yesterday, Day 5, was a rest day exploring Coimbra’s mazy, steep old-town alleys, and the university area. I was intrigued by the reliefs decorating the entrance to the maths department – the stonemason was reasonably adept at mathematical notation, even if a violin f-hole has served as an integral sign.

All Greek to me: Maths dept facade at University of Coimbra

That infinite sum for π/4, by the way, converges to its limit unimaginably slowly. Like me approaching our destination at the end of a day’s hot ride.

Courting greatness: University of Coimbra

I was also curious about the ‘Great Academic Crisis’ of 1969, the department’s opening date, as referred to in a plaque. I thought it might be what I had a few of myself during my maths degree, but it was a student movement against the dictatorship that ruled Portugal from 1933 to 1974.

It’s a long way up: Climbing out of Coimbra

It’s a sobering thought that Portugal, like Spain, was deep in a fascist dictatorship during my lifetime. I can’t imagine how on earth a decent country can find itself ruled by crazed, self-serving, right-wing tyrants who trample over democracy and… oh.

Follow the road

Anyway, today it was time to get back on the road, or rather, up. It was a stiff climb out of Coimbra on back lanes, climbing high into the hills south of the Mondego valley, heading southeast to rejoin the N2.

You’ll have to imagine the birdsong
I can see my house from here

At Lousã though, emboldened by drinking yoghurt and supermarket pastries, we decided to cut across on the more direct and less vertiginous ‘main road’ N342.

Not so busy today

It proved far less busy than we’d feared. In fact, it was virtually deserted. Almost all the morning today I was blissfully happy, trundling along in low gears up gentle ascents through cool woods and forests. The birds were chirping away, and the views down over the hills, villages and towns far below were thrilling.

Breezing along

We got back on to the N2, and it was business as usual: steady gradients, little traffic, lovely scenery, stress-free cycling.

Post modernism: N2 anniversary sign at Alvares

Another superb day of scenic, sunny riding climaxed at Pedrógão Pequeno, overlooking the mighty Cabril dam. Our hilltop hotel had a bird’s-eye view of, well, birds. Plus the luxury of a swimming pool.

Dam good: Crossing the river to Pedrógão Pequeno

We jumped gratefully in, invigorated by the cool waters after our long hot day of cycling. Who needs a beer when you have a pool with a setting like this?

OK, we did. Anyway, the restaurant had a pretty good view, too.

Bit of a dive: Hotel pool in Pedrógão Pequeno

Miles today: 54
Miles since Chaves: 235

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Portugal 7: Pedrógão Pequeno to Abrantes →

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