Bread, cycle paths, kebabs, beer, campsites… and free ATMs: Germany provides well for cycle tourists. The toll-free cashpoints are welcome, because while you can make much of your way by card, cash is still very useful here. And indeed the only way you can pay in many places to eat and put your tent. Heading out from my hostel into Bremen’s damp grey commuter morning, it was gratifyingly easy to find a source of commission-free liquidity.
I wasn’t alone. There were countless others on bikes, heading into town where I was heading out, including a mighty crocodile of maybe a hundred schoolkids on one especially good bike path. I was soon out of the suburbs and into the satellite town of Lilienthal, where I enjoyed a regulation Kaffee und Kuchen.
With an eye on progress, I took the quick options of main roads: they all seem to have segregated, smooth, wide, fast tarmac bike paths running alongside. Priority at junctions – no waiting or giving way to traffic – helped me make excellent time.
Time I then used up at Bremervörde lingering over another top-quality lunch deal from a chain supermarket’s cafe concession. A temporal zero-sum game, this cycling/eating lark.
I was pleasantly surprised by the town of Stade, once I’d got past the rather down-to-earth funfair in one square. Its historic centre was very appealing in the sunshine: half-timbered market square with harbour bobbing with boats, and waterside restaurant tables lively with lunchers who all seemed to have arrived by e-bike.
It was tempting to stay for a fish main course and glass of wine, but I wanted to keep going now I’d built up some momentum, so I made do with a Streuselkuchen from a Bäckerei. Funny how easy I find German to learn when it’s food.
All pleasant stuff now, on very quiet lanes alongside the Elbe. Views of the river itself proved elusive, though: most of the time the road sits at the bottom of the wrong side of the floodbank if you want to see anything, but I suppose the right side if you don’t want to be flooded.
I stopped to photograph a Chicken Crossing sign – it didn’t say why – which alerted me to an honesty stall like I’ve seen at many places this trip.
There was home-produced apple juice for two euros a bottle, a bargain I couldn’t resist, and decided this would make a good change tonight from a beer. I got to my target campsite at Krautsand, a super little place with a bathing beach and lake.
At last, a chance to use the swimmers in my panniers, as I swam in the lake in the evening sunshine.
I like cycling touring.
Miles today: 67
Miles from Füssen: 716