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Germany 13: Eitzendorf to Bremen

Posted on 18 September 202517 October 2025 by Rob Ainsley

A short, drizzly day of flat lanes across farmland and alongside invisible rivers. I left my campsite somewhere around eight, reducing its active population from 1 to 0.

Verden Aller: Not a brand and make of bicycle, but a misty town on the Weser

Breakfast was at Verden Aller, in the six-euro shape of a pain au choc and coffee in a Bäckerei, provided by a friendly and impeccably-dressed middle-aged woman. She looked very much like the sort of friendly and impeccably-dressed middle-aged women who would run a Bäckerei.

Verden Aller council responds to people nagging them about cycle parking

There wasn’t a lot to detain me in the Old Town, apart from some mysteriously horse-themed cycle racks.

I carried on, out along more misty, rainy, flat, deserted paths. One house generously provided free apples for passing walkers and cyclists. I was clearly in Northern Germany now, flat expanses, cottagey farmhouses, windmills and all.

Neptune was god of freshwater and the sea, so he’d’ve been at home today. It rained nonstop.

Shortly further on, I come across another pleasant surprise. Here was yet another Planets Trail, the third that’s accompanied me in the last few days. This time I only caught Neptune and the Kuiper Belt, because I was taking the quicker Alternative Weser Trail, not the D9. No doubt the Alternative Trail is vegan and off-grid and earns its living as a crystals-based life coach.

Welcome to Bremen

This urgency and shortcuttery was all to get to Bremen, because I had some online admin and PC-based stuff to do. I stopped at Lidl in Achim for a sandwich and succeeded in arriving early too well: I was in Bremen at two, well before the hostel reception opened.

It’s grim oop North: Bremen

So I explored the centre a bit, which wasn’t at its best this wet and dull afternoon; it all seemed a bit overbearing and stern. I snapped the iconic statue of the hen standing on a cat standing on a dog standing on a donkey, which sounds like a very old-fashioned circus trick that would be banned now. However, I was more interested in the drain covers, which sported a bicycle motif.

A windfall for cycle tourers, and Bremen’s animal-gymnastics symbol

Once the hostel opened its doors I could stash my bike in its cycle-shed – quite excitingly, a shipping container, which took a lot of lever-wrenching to open and close – and settled down for an evening of catch-up work over a beer and lasagne.

Free Hanseatic City with every purchase

Miles today: 35
Miles from Füssen: 709

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