Cycling adventures across Yorkshire, Britain and beyond
Our zigzag up Jutland continued: yesterday was east coast to west coast, today west coast back to east coast. We had four hours of heartless, heavy, relentless rain, but I wouldn’t say we or our pannier contents got wet. I’d say we and our pannier contents got absolutely sodden. My ancient Ortliebs need replacing at…
Denmark is one of those countries with five million-odd people: Slovakia, Finland, Norway, Palestine, New Zealand, Ireland, Yorkshire. (Perhaps for Yorkshire we can remove that hyphen.) I’ve been to Copenhagen a few times, but never explored the rest of the place. This End to End aims to put that right. Or rather, centre-left. Because the…
My compact trans-Lux ride ended at Schengen, a once obscure wine-growing village down at Luxembourg’s southeast corner, now famous thanks to the border-controls-busting accord signed there. With Britain’s notorious exit from the EU in mind, everything today about my departure from Luxembourg was likely to be a metaphor for Brexit. And so it proved: thick…
Luxembourg likes to style itself as a cycling country these days, rather than say a tax haven. (So, the opposite of what Tory Britain is doing.) Today I got a glimpse of that, with a mixture of mostly lovely cycling which took me down most of the country to the capital, via the very Central…
A big small country, or a small big country? As European micro-states go, Luxembourg is macro. By dwarf standards, a giant. At 2,600km2, it’s positively Russian compared to compact Andorra (468km2), tiny Malta (316km2), bijou Liechtenstein (160km2), minuscule San Marino (61km2), microscopic Monaco (2km2), and nano-scale Vatican City (0.4km2). A proper country, with its own…
I started my Netherlands End to End at the Highest Point, down at Drielandenpunt near Maastricht, so – as I’d been a couple of days in Rotterdam – I couldn’t resist going to the Lowest Point today, between there and Gouda. At 6.76m beneath NAP (normaal Amsterdams piel, in other words, essentially, sea level) it’s…
Having completed the Netherlands End to End, I added the country’s middle point today. I seem to be collecting them: I’ve cycled to national foci in Britain, Belgium and Portugal recently. The centre of the country – in other words, the point at which a piece of cheese the shape of the Netherlands would balance,…
I finished the Dutch End to End today by riding the short last leg up to Noordkaap: the lonely, windy, northernmost point of the mainland, with little but electricity pylons, wind turbines and the odd oystercatcher for company. Another F route took me fast and car-free right from my hostel in the centre of Groningen…
A lovely long, easy day of tailwind scooting along the LF9’s make-believe seashore, going through a variety-pack of flat Frisian landscapes: heathland, marsh, woods, new towns. It was about as wild and remote as the Netherlands gets… well, ‘wild and remote’ in the same sense that the Yorkshire Pennines can get ‘lush and tropical’. But…
I followed an imaginary coastline today: where the Netherlands would meet the North Sea if it hadn’t been for centuries of land reclamation. Given the recent few months of incessant rain and a fair bit of standing water still in fields, as in England, it wasn’t that hard to imagine. I started in Zwolle with…