Cycling adventures across Yorkshire, Britain and beyond
From Britain’s oldest inhabited house (arguably) to Britain’s oldest-ever house (possibly) today: Gray’s Court, York (lived in since 1091) to Star Carr (a mesolithic site with remains of an 11,000-year-old roundhouse). Which included some rather wonderful riding across the Wolds on my Spa Wayfarer (a provider of touring pleasure since 2021). The morning’s mix of…
Last century, York was a chocolate manufacturing powerhouse. Kit Kat, Yorkie, Smarties, After Eights, Aero, Chocolate Orange and others were invented here. They and other brands (Polo, All Gold, etc) were made in their millions in the Rowntree factory on Haxby Road, and the Terry factory on the Knavesmire. At its mid-twentieth century peak, the…
At a loose end last year, I did a home-base End to End of York. At another loose end today, I did a Side to Side. I’m talking the ‘City of York’: the roughly ten-by-ten mile non-metropolitan district within whose boundaries live 203,000 people in 95,000 houses with 235 pubs, 193 churches, 65 supermarkets, 43…
I finished my Germany End to End today at the the country’s northernmost point: a windswept, sandy beach on the island of Sylt looking out over the North Sea towards Denmark. The grassy dunes are a long way from the alpine views of the Austrian border where I started two and a half weeks –…
I rode to England today, but not in the way I expected. It’s a village in far north-eastern Germany, heard of which I not previously had. But when I spotted the name on a sign, soon after setting off from Husum, I couldn’t resist a slight deviation to see it on the penultimate day of…
A short day on this autumnal equinox, with small achievement of both distance and itinerary: I changed barely more than one letter as I dawdled up the coast from Büsum to Husum. The brevity of the ride was partly determined by accommodation: Husum has a super little hostel, cosy and reasonably-priced, which I wanted to…
A few miles out from the campsite, I had to cross the Elbe today on the ferry across to Glückstadt. I could see it, right there, just the other side of the waterworks bridge that was clearly marked on my map. And the bridge was indeed there. It was just vertical instead of horizontal. Not…
Bread, cycle paths, kebabs, beer, campsites… and free ATMs: Germany provides well for cycle tourists. The toll-free cashpoints are welcome, because while you can make much of your way by card, cash is still very useful here. And indeed the only way you can pay in many places to eat and put your tent. Heading…
A short, drizzly day of flat lanes across farmland and alongside invisible rivers. I left my campsite somewhere around eight, reducing its active population from 1 to 0. Breakfast was at Verden Aller, in the six-euro shape of a pain au choc and coffee in a Bäckerei, provided by a friendly and impeccably-dressed middle-aged woman….
Miesbach, 1999*. Crask Inn, 2013**. Minden, 2025. Once every dozen years, it seems, I have a Lost Property Disaster while cycle touring. But disasters which all get miraculously resolved. The morning was all going so well. Nice self-made breakfast in my excellent Airbnb apartment. Early start from a waking Minden. Fast, wind-assisted progress along the…