Another sunny, easy, lovely day, trundling the quiet lanes and bike paths of southern Wallonia, and ending up at a place called Soup. It was straight-up freezing cold when I left my room in Beauraing at half seven this morning. I always wondered what chilblains were when my grandparents talked about them sixty years ago….
Category: End to Ends
Belgium 4: Namur to Beauraing
A short day, dictated by the availability of affordable accomm… but some of the loveliest cycling so far, following the river. Eek! It’s the Meuse! I’d had a sleepless night in a noisy dorm. If only science could invent some device that enabled people to listen to music or films on their phone without disturbing…
Belgium 3: Leuven to Namur
When I did my Belgium Side to Side in 2022 I passed through the country’s central point. Now I’m doing it Top to Bottom, I just had to go through the same point. This made my two routes cross in the most appropriate way, forming a wobbly chromosome-like ‘X’ shape. Well, cycle routes are clearly…
Belgium 2: Antwerp to Leuven
A short, bright, breezy day of headwinds and towpaths. Not the narrow, lumpy, muddy tracks typically accompanying a British canal, though: here, a ‘towpath’ is a jaagpad, a wide, smooth, tarmac service road on which motor vehicles are as common as Belgian downhill skiers. With plenty of time in hand, I could dawdle round Antwerp…
Belgium 1: Essen to Antwerp
Two years ago I did Belgium End to End by doing it Side to Side. I love cycling the place because of its excellent cycle paths and its highbrow cultural experiences such as beer, chips, chocolate and comics. So now I’m doing it Top to Bottom. This will take me from Essen – not the…
Switzerland 9: Susch to Martina
Thanks to all that vertical work yesterday, we had the agreeable situation today of downhill all the way. Downhill from Susch to the border; downhill from the border to our accommodation target in Landeck, Austria. Along with thrilling scenery, sunny weather, light winds and a return to Austrian prices, it made for a very enjoyable…
Switzerland 8: Chur to Susch
Over the Albula Pass today, after which it was all downhill to Susch. Our hotel breakfast included prosecco, which I couldn’t resist but had only a few sips of. Otherwise the day would have gone downhill immediately. We started by retracing our steps last night a few miles back to Bonarduz, in light rain. There…
Switzerland 7: Hospental to Chur
After a day off yesterday, today’s challenge was the enjoyable ascent of Oberalppass, one of the few alpine cols to sport a lighthouse. Yes, it’s 230 miles from the nearest sea, at Genoa, but as you know the Swiss are very keen on safety. It was another lovely sunny day, with memories of earlier torrential…
Switzerland 5: Interlaken to Hospental
Q: What name is given to a cyclable road that crosses a mountain saddle at high altitude? A: Pass! Yes, today it was down to real business: two of the four big passes between us and the End of the End to End, namely Grimselpass and Furkapass. After those will come Oberalppass and Albulapass, but…
(Switzerland 4: Interlaken–Grosse Scheidegg–Interlaken)
No progress on our End to End today, by design: we’re staying in Interlaken again tonight and did the Grosse Scheidegg loop, one of Switzerland’s best day rides. Central to its appeal is the middle eight miles over the 1960m / 6,440ft col between Schwarzhorn and Wetterhorn, which is car-, but not postbus- or horn-,…









