The only day of climbing in the whole trip today: up to 500m or so, as I crossed the hilly country north of Würzburg. The prospect hadn’t exactly been keeping me awake, but I was aware of it, shall we say. What did keep me awake, though, was a man shouting, singing and arguing with…
Category: End to Ends
Germany 5: Rothenburg ob der Tauber to Würzburg
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not to be confused with Rotenburg an der Fulda, or Rotenburg an der Wümme. And note not just the ‘h’, but the ‘ob’: the picture-postcard Romantic town is ‘over’ the Tauber, whereas the h-less ones are ‘on’ their particular rivers. Rothenburg is high on a bluff above the Tauber, which…
Germany 4: Dinkelsbühl to Rothenburg ob der Tauber
A day of heavy rain, short distances, and my most expensive accomm of the trip: a guesthouse in the Old Town of half-timbered honeypot Rothenburg ob der Tauber. But it was worth it to have the place to myself in the evening after the tourist buses had gone, to have somewhere to dry my sodden…
Germany 3: Donauwörth to Dinkelsbühl
It was your echt Romantic Road today: a super ride past authentic German sights such as colourful half-timbered town houses, sturdy medieval city walls, and heavy goods vehicles. A reminder that ‘Romantic’ is not always the same as ‘romantic’. Anyway, it was another fisty and moggy morning. But thanks to another early start and the…
Germany 2: Landsberg to Donauwörth
A fine day of easy, flat, stress-free paths and gravel roads. After a chill and foggy start, that is, alongside the mirror-grey waters of the Lech from my campsite into Landsberg centre. But it earned me that great German start to a morning: Kaffee und Kuchen. The cafe clientele consisted of half-a-dozen smart-casual mature types…
Germany 1: Füssen to Landsberg
I’m doing Germany End to End. South to north, Austrian border to Danish. Specifically, from Füssen, home of that Disneyland castle; to Sylt, the North Sea island where the country’s celebs hang out. I’m mainly following the D9 Route, along the Romantic Road and then the Weser. Beer and sausages may be involved. I spent…
Denmark 4: Kirke Sonnerup to Nyhavn
Our Denmark Side to Side finished today: at Nyhavn. The colourful harbour is one of Copenhagen’s major tourist tick-boxes, and more picturesque than the underwhelming Little Mermaid. It felt a suitable end point. To get there we had a straight run of thirty-odd miles on good main road bike paths past Roskilde. Nigel’s mechanical concerns…
Denmark 3: Odense to Kirke Sonnerup
A long day – 75 miles – and a rainy one, but thanks to Denmark’s quiet country lanes and good separated bike paths, rather fun. If you call cycling in the rain fun. Which, being a cycle tourist, I often do. We surfed the commuter tide out of Odense on decent and well-signed bike infra….
Denmark 2: Kolding to Odense
Danish hostels are not cheap, but the breakfast was just what I needed: a big buffet of fruit, cold cuts, fresh bread, yoghurt, salad, coffee and juices. A cold cut above the average English hostel, I must say, although something this hostel has in common with its British counterparts is that it’s on top of…
Denmark 1: Blåvand to Kolding
I did Denmark last year ‘bottom to top’ (Padborg to Skagen, all the way up Jutland). Like the slightly guilty fan of the pricey coffee and full-fat pastries in a hygge cafe, I enjoyed it so much that I’m here again, to do the happy cycling country ‘side to side’. That is, from Blåvand on…









