It was your echt Romantic Road today: a super ride past authentic German sights such as colourful half-timbered town houses, sturdy medieval city walls, and heavy goods vehicles. A reminder that ‘Romantic’ is not always the same as ‘romantic’. Anyway, it was another fisty and moggy morning. But thanks to another early start and the…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Germany 2: Landsberg to Donauwörth
A fine day of easy, flat, stress-free paths and gravel roads. After a chill and foggy start, that is, alongside the mirror-grey waters of the Lech from my campsite into Landsberg centre. But it earned me that great German start to a morning: Kaffee und Kuchen. The cafe clientele consisted of half-a-dozen smart-casual mature types…
Germany 1: Füssen to Landsberg
I’m doing Germany End to End. South to north, Austrian border to Danish. Specifically, from Füssen, home of that Disneyland castle; to Sylt, the North Sea island where the country’s celebs hang out. I’m mainly following the D9 Route, along the Romantic Road and then the Weser. Beer and sausages may be involved. I spent…
Dales dawdle: From Swale to Skipton
After a splendid time at Reeth Show yesterday, I rode up hill and down dale to Skipton today: a leisurely forty-mile traverse of the Yorkshire Dales from top to bottom, involving Swaledale, Wensleydale, Coverdale, Wharfedale and Airedale. (There’s something like 30–50 dales in the Dales, so this only involved a fraction of them.) →See map…
Reeth: That’s Show business
Yorkshire’s annual country shows and fairs are a strong part of the county’s culture. They vary from the blockbuster ‘national’ Great Yorkshire Show each July to many dozens of smaller, field-sized village affairs. In the upper middle are grand events such as Reeth Show, up in Swaledale each August Bank Holiday Monday. Today was August…
Booze: A sobering experience
Yorkshire has many places with very silly names. Rise, Jump, Settle. Idle. Wham. Giggleswick, Land of Nod, Netherthong. Robin Hood (yes, not ‘Robin Hood’s Bay’). And everyone’s favourite, Wetwang. Plus Booze, where I was this morning. The hamlet of under a dozen houses is up a steep, steep lane off Arkengarthdale, not far from Reeth…
Arkengarthdale: Carry on Champing
I’ve overnighted while cycle-touring in all sorts of places. Docked ferries, (former) jails, military barracks, tractor sheds. Even a rare-breed tropical spider house in the Amazon – though it wasn’t called that, it was called a ‘holiday lodge’. But last night, in the Yorkshire Dales, I experienced a rather special first: staying overnight in a…
Floats my boat: Amphibious Cycle Touring in the Lakes
I’m exploring the touring possibilities of a folding bike plus inflatable boat. The bike can carry the deflated boat; and the boat can carry the folded bike. Which enables amphibious linear journeys: you don’t have to paddle back to where you left the bike (or car, not that I can be bothered with cars). You…
Thankful Yorks 5: Scruton
If you only visit one ‘thankful village’ – one of the 53 in England and Wales to have all its sons survive WWI – make it Scruton, up in North Yorkshire, between Richmond and Northallerton. The last of my rides to all five of Yorkshire’s finished here today, at a village where, more than any…
Egton Bridge: Playing gooseberry
The Egton Bridge Gooseberry Show – on the first Tuesday in August each year – is the world’s most ancient: over two centuries old, having started in 1800. A splendid excuse to visit the North Yorkshire Moors village today on my folding bike, thanks to a £3 trip on the 840 Coastliner from York, Britain’s…









