Today’s fieldwork for the Yorkshire Dales guidebook update involved the world’s oldest sweetshop, a remote cul-de-sac pub, a hidden gem of a gorge, plenty of lovely scenery, and a hedgehog abducted by aliens. I cycled up Nidderdale from Harrogate via Ripley, a pretty village I’ve blogged about before. I enjoyed a pork pie from the…
Author: Rob Ainsley
Slow Sedbergh: Chapter and verse on the book town
It may pose as Cumbria (or worse, now, ‘Westmorland and Furness’) but Sedbergh and environs was in Yorkshire up to 1974. So the 2016 extension of the Yorkshire Dales to include it was only righting a historical wrong. Anyway, I spent three days of fieldwork around Sedbergh for the Yorkshire Dales Slow Travel guidebook that…
Market Weighton: Grand col du Tour de Bretagne
Stage 3 of the Tour of Britain went through Market Weighton today – a £2 bus ride on the X46 from my house, with bikes welcome on board – so I went along to enjoy the roadside spectating festivities. Watching the race flash past is a bit like an eclipse. There’s an hour or two…
Slow Swaledale: Tales of trails, dales and ales
Swaledale is the most epic of the Yorkshire Dales. If Wensleydale is a Mozart concerto, and Wharfedale a Sibelius symphony, Swaledale is a Richard Strauss opera. An intense elemental-forces tale of love, conflict, separation, nine-child families and sheep. And cream teas with squirty cream. Our Yorkshire Farm, you could call it, or perhaps Unsere wunderschön…
Whitton Island: Yorkshire’s Surtsey
In the early 1960s, a volcanic eruption off the Icelandic coast created a new island: Surtsey, which is still there today. Well, anything other countries can do, Yorkshire can do too. Just a bit flatter, especially the vowels. Until the 21st century, Yorkshire had no islands to speak of. And you know what Yorkshire folk…
Slow Kirkby Stephen: Variations on a theme of Frank’s Bridge
En route home from yesterday’s ride to all England’s highest roads, I rode from Teesdale to Kirkby Stephen. With a couple of hours to kill before my train, I worked them to death, doing some quick research for the Slow Travel Guide to the Yorkshire Dales that I’m updating. I’d never ridden the B6276 road…
Seven Summits: High achievements in the North Pennines
The six highest roads in England are close together in the North Pennines, south-east of Alston. Close enough to make an inviting, but strenuous, day ride. I couldn’t resist trying it out today, for a magazine article. The exact summit heights are, and therefore identity of the highest is, a matter for debate. Locals with…
Slow Wensleydale 3: Say cheese (or squirrels)
Just a few places to tick off updating today: Askrigg, Bainbridge, Hawes. Just as well, as I had a ferocious headwind all day. I took another lovely little back road that was new to me – between Aysgarth and Cubeck via Thornton Rust, who sounds like a minor 1950s thespian. Fine views over Wensleydale, and…
Slow Wensleydale 2: Cantering round Middleham
A circular ride today, Aysgarth – Bishopdale – Coverdale – Aysgarth, involving racehorses, Richard III, a grand castle, and Britain’s weirdest attraction. I breezed through some Bishopdale villages, including the comparatively metropolitan West Burton, with its fine green and friendly pubs and shops (most miraculously still going). It also has a lovely hidden waterfall I…
Slow Wensleydale 1: Snail’s Pacer
Another guidebook updating trip, this time to Wensleydale. The lower dale benefits from the wonderful Wensleydale Railway, a heritage line enthusiastically maintained by volunteers with a sequence of station buildings furnished in the style of various 1900s eras. Some of their rolling stock is so ancient that it offers lavish bike spaces, a vision of…